Pulse
Rapaport RAPI 1ct+0.57%
Rapaport RAPI 0.50ct+4.10%
USD / INR95.82+0.40%
Gold$4,349.90/oz-7.41%
De Beers $/ct$110/ct-37.0%
India Polished Exports$925M-4.93%

D-LoupeDaily intelligence for the diamond tradeMarket movements, trade flows, and exhibition insights

The Morning Loupe

Tuesday, 22 September 2026Mixed signals

Small stones lead as US holiday demand firms

Rough

De Beers' realized rough price sits at $110/ct, down 37% year-on-year for Q2 — a quarterly benchmark rather than today's move, but it frames how far the miner has cut to clear boxes into a cautious midstream.

Polished

Rapaport's monthly RAPI shows 0.50ct up +4.10% against just +0.57% for 1ct, the clearest sign yet that this month's bid is concentrating in smaller, gift-priced stones rather than larger goods.

Demand & macro

The shekel firmed 1.37% against the dollar this week (USD/ILS 3.01), quietly lifting Israeli desks' shekel-denominated costs, while gold's 6.79% monthly pullback to $4,379/oz eases jewelry metal input just as US holiday spending forecasts point higher. India's polished exports at $925M (-4.93% YoY in August) keep the midstream backdrop soft.

From the field

Signet's Joan Hilson signals firming natural-diamond demand into the holidays — a read from the largest US multi-banner retailer that, if it holds, pulls upstream into specific size and quality bands rather than the whole market evenly.

On the radar

MadridJoya's 75th edition opens Sept 24–27 at IFEMA Madrid, the first of a dense autumn show calendar running on through Doha and Istanbul.

Trade Alerts

What you need to act on

  • InfoIndustry

    Qatar Diamond Exchange signs its first European bourse alliance — MoU with Italy's Borsa Diamanti d'Italia

    Signed Sept 15 at CIBJO's centenary congress in Vicenza and reported Sept 17, the MoU gives members of both bourses reciprocal access to each other's tenders, auctions, viewings and events. It is QDE's first European tie-up, after earlier MoUs with the Singapore, Shanghai and Tokyo exchanges — extending its network from Asia into Europe.

    What to do: If you source or sell through Gulf or Italian channels, register interest with QDE / Borsa Diamanti now so you can use the new cross-bourse tender, auction and viewing access when building Q4 buying and selling plans.

  • InfoPrices

    India's August gem & jewellery exports rise 3% to $2.30B; cut-and-polished diamonds hold at $925M (–5% YoY)

    GJEPC data released Sept 12 shows India's total gem & jewellery exports up 3% YoY to $2.30bn in August. Cut-and-polished diamond exports were $925M, down just 5% YoY — a sharp improvement on July's ~18% drop.

    What to do: Treat the narrowing decline as a stabilisation signal for Indian-cut polished demand — factor it into Q4 inventory and quoting, and note the shift toward studded/value-added jewellery when planning your mix. Watch whether the RAPI recovery holds.

  • PrepareIndustry

    Signet posts +2.2% same-store sales and raises guidance — US fine-jewelry demand firm, average prices up 6%

    Signet (Kay/Zales/Jared, the largest US specialty jeweler) reported Q2 FY27 on Sept 9: same-store sales +2.2% with positive comps across every fine-jewelry brand, average unit retail up 6%, gross margin above 39%, and a swing back to net profit (>$52M vs a prior-year loss). It raised full-year same-store-sales guidance to flat-to-+2.5%.

    What to do: Read this as a firm US retail-demand signal into Q4: hold quoting discipline on bridal and natural goods and weight your assortment toward higher-ticket pieces — average selling prices are rising, not falling — rather than defaulting to discounts.

  • InfoIndustry

    CIBJO recommends "synthetic" as the sole descriptor for created stones; national disclosure law still governs

    On September 7, 2026, at the close of its Centenary Congress in Vicenza, the CIBJO board approved a recommendation from its Diamond and Coloured Stone Commissions that the Blue Books be revised so that "synthetic" becomes the sole descriptor for a created product with the same chemical composition, physical properties and structure as its naturally occurring counterpart. The board explicitly acknowledged that "laboratory-grown" and "laboratory-created" are consumer marketing terms accepted in certain jurisdictions, and that national law or regulations take precedence there; CIBJO recommends "synthetic" when communicating to an international audience. No effective date for the revised Blue Books was announced. Correction: an earlier version of this alert described the change as a mandate in force from September 2026 and as restricting the 4Cs to natural diamonds. Neither was adopted.

    What to do: Nothing is binding on you today — CIBJO sets standards, not law, and your local disclosure rules remain the compliance baseline for how man-made stones are described to consumers. Where you deal with counterparties that follow CIBJO terminology (labs, bourses, export documentation), use "synthetic" and expect to see it in incoming paperwork. Wait for the revised Blue Books before rewriting consumer-facing marketing.

  • PrepareIndustry

    Bain 2026 holiday outlook: US retail tops $1T (+4.5%) but jewelry lags — 43% of shoppers plan to spend less on it

    Bain's holiday forecast (Sept 6) sees US Nov–Dec sales up 4.5% YoY (vs 3.5% last year), passing $1 trillion for the first time — but jewelry is a low-priority category: 43% of consumers plan to spend less on jewelry and only 18% more, with Gen Z the main bright spot. Inflation accounts for over half the nominal gain.

    What to do: Plan Q4 assortment and stock now: don't assume a broad high-end rebound — weight toward value price-points and Gen-Z-oriented pieces, keep high-ticket inventory lean, and price for a value-conscious, promotion-driven holiday.

Market Pulse

Latest gem-market data

As of 22 September 2026
Rapaport RAPI 1ctRapaport index tracking the average asking price of 1-carat round polished diamonds on RapNet — the industry's core polished-price benchmark.1m
+0.57%
Rapaport RAPI 0.50ctRapaport index for half-carat round polished diamonds — a gauge of demand in the smaller, more commercial size range.1m
+4.10%
USD / INRUS dollar to Indian rupee rate. India polishes ~90% of the world's diamonds, so the rupee moves manufacturers' costs and margins.1w
95.82
+0.40%
GoldSpot gold price per troy ounce — the main raw-material cost for jewelry manufacturing and a barometer of safe-haven sentiment.1m
$4,349.90/oz
-7.41%
De Beers $/ctAverage price per carat of rough diamonds sold by De Beers in its sales cycles — a leading signal for rough supply pricing.Q2 26 YoY
$110/ct
-37.0%
India Polished ExportsMonthly value of polished diamond exports from India (GJEPC data) — a key gauge of global downstream demand.Aug 26 YoY
$925M
-4.93%

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